General Frequently Asked Gardening Questions
Q: I just got rid of a bad spidermite infestation, and I'm getting ready to start over with new plants. I want to do whatever it takes not to get another infestation on my next crop. How should I proceed?
A: Find the answers on Spider Mite Prevention page.
Q: I'm growing in a large open room. What options do I have for odor control?
A: Find the answers on Odor Control Within A Growroom page.
Q: I've got a few very rare and expensive seeds that I need to germinate. How should I get them started?
A: Find the answers on How to Germinate Seeds page.
Q: I got a fluorescent light from a friend, he had it in another room with spider mites. Will they infest the light and light fixture?
A: Yes. When you've got a spidermite infestation, you've got to assume that they're on everything that comes out of that room, including that T5 light, and your friend! Spidermites have a natural survival instinct which causes a certain number of egg-filled females to crawl off to non plant areas and go dormant when they're having one of their infestation parties. This is why the little suckers come back after you think you've beat them. I'd take the bulbs out of the fixture and wipe it down, maybe with a mild bleach solution, or just soapy water on a slightly moist cloth. Do the same with the bulbs before you put them back in and you should be OK.
One last thing- T5 bulbs last for about 1-year of daily use. So if you don't know how long the bulbs have been in use, you may want to put in new replacements. Regardless of how bright they seem to our eyes, it makes a ton of difference to the plants to have new bulbs.
Q: My res. is 55 gals. and i'm using 8-5 gal. buckets for my plants in the ebb monster flood and drain system. Every few days i need to top-off the res with water/nutrients. Do i use just fresh water, fresh ph'ed water or do I add more nutes to the water I'm topping off????
A: You should only use fresh water for top offs. The contents of the res get more concentrated when water is evaporating (nutes don't evaporate), so adding more nutes is usually not necessary. Also, before you even bother to check your PH on a daily basis, top your res off with fresh water first, then test your PH.
It's common for hydroponics gardeners to obsessively test PH levels and then try to adjust it when all they really have to do is top off with fresh water to fix their PH level. Maintaining your nutrient solution level with fresh water between changes will also maintain your PH level to a degree. You still might have to do PH adjustments, but this makes it much easier.
Q: I ordered a Lumatek Ballast with this bulb (1000W eye Hortilux Super Blue HPS Bulb). Is there any issues with running this type of bulb on this ballast?
A: Nope, no problem whatsoever. When electronic ballasts first came out a few years ago, there were some issues with bulbs burning out more frequently because they weren't designed to run on the higher output of an electronic ballast, but those issues have been resolved. The manufacturers of HID bulbs have pretty much all changed their designs over the last few years to handle that higher output with beefier metal structures within the bulb. The E-ballasts have also evolved since they were first introduced to the market. The Lumatek ballasts are a dependable, fine-tuned e-ballast. No issues, this is a state-of-the-art combo!
Q: Can the CO2 generator be mounted outside the growing area and piped in to keep the growing room cooler?
A: Some people maintain an area next to their grow room, or rooms, (I've heard this called a lung-room), where you'd have your CO2 generator, along with any other necessary atmosphere control equipment (air conditioner, heater, dehumidifier), then you aggressively duct air both into and out of the lung room directly to the garden area. It is a good approach for multiple rooms.
Q: What is Nutrient Film Technique ?
A: "nutrient film technique" or NFT is basically an aggressive running nutrient solution through the plants root-system. The Aeroflo systems that we sell are really NFT, but hybridized with some sprayers to add oxygen. Our new line of systems by Current Culture is NFT, but with some big air bubblers in each container producing a ton of added oxygen.
In NFT, the faster movement of the nutrient solution through the plants roots carries oxygen into the roots, and keeps everything healthy. NFT is classically used for lettuce in shallow channels with really close plant placement, but in the last couple of years, hydroponics manufacturers have embraced NFT and crossed it with other types of delivery methods and maybe have come up with something superior. Here's a link to a video on one of our manufacturers websites, and the big NFT systems they sell:
These are some of the nicest 'classic' NFT systems available on the market today. They sell these for commercial lettuce production, and they are affordable systems. The problem with the old style NFT systems is that there isn't enough room for a larger plants root-system, which is why some of these other companies have 're-thought' the approach. Hope this helps!
Q: I either read or heard that grow lights should be changed at some intervals but I do not know the why of it? What do you know?
A: The lamps appear to stay bright to our eyes, but the lumens and spectrum start to degrade from the first day you start using the lamp. The plants can really tell the difference, and you'll lose density and yield in your garden if you're using old bulbs. They say that a 1000w MH bulb should be replaced every 10 months of use. A 1000w HPS is a little longer at 12-14 months, and the lower wattage HID bulbs are up to about a year and a half at the longest. All fluorescent bulbs should be replaced every 10-12 months of regular daily use.
At one year, a 1000w HPS bulb is only putting out about 3/4 of it's original output, so even though you're still paying to run a 1000w light on your electric bill, your garden is only giving back what a 750w garden would. Most of our customers replace their bulbs every year of use, and personally, I agree with this approach. Your garden will yield better and will absolutely pay for the new bulb if you stick to the 'once a year' replacement plan.
Q: I am in the planning stage of our fall greenhouse startup... Bulbs, flowers, maybe one or two dwarf fruit trees. I need a recommendation on a nutrient for the flowers... that would work well for the coir / perlite mix used in the autopots.
A: My recommendation has to be Dyna-gro. They make a very simple line of products, directly to the point. They are economical, and they work well! You can't ask for much more from a line of nutrients. I'd use theirK-L-N Rooting Concentrate for aggressive rooting at the beginning, with the Dyna-gro Foliage-Pro, and Pro-TeKt for vegetative growth, and then switch to the Dyna-gro Bloom, Mag-Pro, and Pro-Tekt for flowering. The ones you'll go through the most of are the Pro-Foliar, and the Bloom. The others parts will be used less, maybe with the exception of the Mag-Pro which you will use all through flowering.
We use this line in our retail store display systems because it's easy, and it always produces an impressive abundance of fruit or flowers without fail. I also use the line in my yard at home on all of my decorative plants, I really like this line of nutes, and think it would be a good fit for your greenhouse flowers
Q: Is there an energy savings when using a 1000W ballast with 240V instead of 120V? I know that when running an electric motor, 240V is more efficient than 120V
A: It is more efficient to run your lights on 240v as opposed to 120v, but running on 240v doesn't really save you very much money on the electric bill. A little bit.
The biggest argument for running on 240v is that your lights and ballasts will run cooler as 240v is a cleaner, steadier power source. Less heat is always a good thing, and your bulbs will hang onto a higher lumen output for a longer period of time.
The bulbs will also burn at an entirely different color spectrum as they were really all designed to run at their best output on 240v. You can see the difference side by side when compared to 120v. Running your lights on 240v is definitely a good choice.
Q: I’ve been reading about the Horti Super Eye 600w HPS bulb being unstable when used with electronic ballasts (Lumatek 400/600). Any news on this?
A: They work fine now! Hortilux bulbs are now rated to handle the output of any electronic ballast.
Hortilux Super Blue (dual-arc bulb) is the only exception. We don't recommend using a Super Blue with an electronic ballast as they will strobe between the HPS and the MH inside the bulb. Otherwise, all Hortiluxbulbs are now electronic ballast approved!
Q: How do I figure out what size of fan to use in my growroom?
A: Use our online Fan size calculator to find out. Find it here.
Q: When I take plant cuttings it seems that they all wilt right away then a few bounce back and some never do. How can I increase my success rate?
A: Find the answers on How to Make Plant Cuttings page.
Q: What is Bacillus Thuringiensis?
A: Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT) is a naturally occurring bacterial disease of insects. BT acts by producing proteins that react with the cells of the gut lining in insects. BT paralyzes the digestive system which makes the insect stop feeding on the plants within hours and they die of starvation.
BT based insecticides are most commonly used against leaf- and needle-feeding caterpillars. Recently, strains have been produced that affect certain fly larvae, such as mosquitoes, and larvae of leaf beetles. BT is considered safe to people and wildlife. Some formulations can be used on essentially all food Crops.
Insects controlled by BT include: Gnats, Thrips, Cabbage worm, Hornworm, European corn borer, Alfalfa caterpillar, Webworm, Leafroller, Achemon sphinx, Tent caterpillar, Red-humped caterpillar, Spiny elm caterpillar, Budworm, Pine butterfly.
Q: How do I move a rooted cutting to the Hydroton in my Ebb And Grow system?
A: Find the answers on our Transplanting Seedlings into Ebb & Flow Hydroponics System page.
Q: ?'s about Ebb + Flow System - 1.) Where do you put the seed ? is there a grow plug ? -
2.) How often do you cycle fill and drain ? - 3.) How high in grow bucket does water go ?
A: Find the answers on our Growing Seedlings with an Ebb & Flow System page.
Q: What's the difference between electronic (digital) and magnetic ballasts?
A: There are differences between a magnetic and an electronic ballast. The advantages of using electronic ballasts include:
Less heat output
10 to 15% less electrical usage
Brighter burning bulb
Burns both HPS (Sodium) and MH (Halide) bulbs
The disadvantages are: possible shorter ballast life expectancy, higher bulb failure rate because of the brighter burn (higher wattage to the bulb). The magnetic ballasts have been around for a long time, and they are very dependable, but all of the advantages to using an electronic ballast are pretty big advantages.
Q: How long do I use a dome over my plant cuttings?
A: Find the answer on our Using Domes with Plant Cuttings page.
Q: I am a bit confused. If I want to apply Bat Guano as a fertilizer, should I do it during the total growing period or at specific times? Also, there are a zillion organic fertilizers, should I just throw a dart at the board and get one? They all sound about the same...
A: Find the answer on our Growing with Bat Guano page.
Q: ... running CO2, plus have CAN 66 Combo (8-inch CAN fan, filter, flange) that I was considering venting to the atmosphere... while pulling outside fresh air through... via a duct... But I don't want to loose all my CO2, but again, the poor little things so hot all cooped up in there with that stuff, even though they love it.
A: Find the answer on our Heat in your Grow Room - How to deal with it page.
Q: My friend has a orange tree, Can I cut a branch off and use a cloning gel, will that work?
A: If you're going to take a cutting and have it root, it's got to be less than about 6" in length. So, you're probably only going to be able to take a small end of a branches new growth.
There is another method, called "air layering" that bonsai tree enthusiasts use, where you strip some bark (about 2" all the way around) from around a branch, then put cloning gel onto the stripped off layer. Then you quickly pack pre-moistened growing medium (coconut hull fiber, or peat, or ?) around the area, then wrap with saran wrap or something that will contain the moisture. You shouldn't wrap too tightly, because oxygen is needed inside of the saran wrap, as well as continued moisture. Then you make a small hole in the top of the saran wrap, and another in the bottom for drainage. Then, over a 2-4 week period, you keep the growing medium in the saran wrap consistently moist. When you water through the hole in the top, some water should be able to come through the hole on the bottom, and the growing medium should never completely dry out. The branch should root in the saran wrap, and you'll be able to cut the branch off just below the newly rooted area. This will give you the entire branch, rooted and ready to plant. It's a touchy process, and there are no absolute guarantee's of success, but if it works, you'll have a nice little tree. I think you can choose a branch up to about 3' long for this process.
I've never done this, so take my instructions loosely, and do some research on your end before you go forward with any air layering experiment.
Q: I have been using GE Lucalox 600w bulbs with a purple Lumatek digital ballast. These work great, but I'm looking for a new bulb and want to order from you. Can you recommend a HPS bulb that you carry for the Lumatek 600w digital, please? From what I've read, this can be tricky, and I want to be certain of a good match.
A: Most of the older 600 watt lamps on the market weren't made to withstand the higher output of an electronic ballast, but we've got several new bulbs that are designed specifically for electronic (digital) ballast's. Here are some: 600w Lumatek High-Par Output HPS Lamps, 600w Agrosun Red HPS, and our new true metal halide 600w Digilux Digital bulb.
If you've got an electronic ballast, and you've been running one of the older 600 watt lamps (like Hortilux or Sunmaster Super HPS), you may benefit from a change to one of these higher output lamps that is actually designed to work with your electronic ballast. (updated 8-16-10)
Q: What is the shelf life of the Maxicrop liquid products, bat guano, and the FoxFarm liquid products?
A: All of these would last better if stored under favorable conditions, but according to the manufacturer, Maxicrop has no real shelf life if stored correctly, bat guano is the same, although it's more sensitive to moisture and humidity, and the Foxfarm products have about a 4 year shelf life. Foxfarm achieves their shelf life by adjusting the pH to a very acid, which won't allow bad bacteria or fungus to grow.
Correct storage is simply to not expose them to any extreme conditions. Freezing is bad, direct light is bad, and heat is bad. For the bat guano, a big sealing storage container will help to keep it dry for long term storage.
Q: When you site shows an item that states "shipping applies" does that mean i will have to pay shipping even if the total purchase is over $250?
A: Only on those items that say's "shipping applies" would you have to pay the shipping charge, everything else will be free shipping if the total is $250 or more. We used to offer the free shipping on everything, but some of the items we sell are so heavy that the shipping cost is more than our profit on the item we're selling. Just for example, a 50 liter bag of hydroton cost's us $19 per bag to ship from Michigan to Pennsylvania. We don't even make half of that shipping cost on a bag of hydroton, so we have no choice but to charge the actual shipping cost. We don't add anything for packaging, or handling, and we've got good volume discounted shipping rates, and we've got good prices, so even with shipping added, it's a good deal. It was either that, or we'd have to stop offering the heavy items on our site. If you'd like a shipping quote on anything in particular, just contact us.
Q: I use Hydroton expanded clay pellets in my ebb and flow system and have a question regarding its re-use. I soak and rinse with a mild bleach solution but removing all of the fine root mass is painstakingly time consuming. How necessary is it to remove 100% of the finer roots? Certainly the root ball and vast majority of the roots are removed, it's the last 10% of organic material that is so hard to remove. Am I doing my garden a disservice by not getting everything removed?
A: By getting 90% of the roots out of the Hydroton, you are doing better than most people probably do.
If you wanted to go one step further, you could start out your next group of plants with one of the "zyme" type products for the first week or two. There are several of them available, and their function is to eat up all non-living soft organic matter, which would effectively clean up the Hydroton.
As a side bonus, when you use one of these zyme products at the beginning of the cycle, you will achieve faster root production on the new plants. The only drawback to these products is that they are expensive, but if you only use it at the beginning, the cost isn't too bad. All of that being said, I don't think you'll experience any terrible problems with such a small amount of leftover root pieces in the hydroton anyway after you use the bleach.
If you've got any interest in the "zymes", here are some links: Hesi PowerZyme Hygrozyme Humboldt ProZyme
Q: Is it possible to use a metal halide bulb in the hps fixture? I am wanting to veg w/ a metal halide bulb and then change to the hps bulb during flowering. Good idea, or no?
A: They make conversion bulbs that would burn as a halide in your HPS fixture. The bulbs are a little more expensive, but they do work well. You can check them out here. But, you can use a metal halide bulb in your HPS fixture if you want to.
The difference between a MH and an HPS bulb is that the MH has a firing unit built right into the bulb. The firing unit is what 'ignites' the gas in the lamp when you turn it on. The HPS bulbs don't have a firing unit in the bulb, so they have to have one built into the HPS ballast. So, if you put an MH into an HPS fixture, there are two firing units, the one in the bulb, and the one in the ballast. These will both fire whenever the fixture turns on. If you tried to do it the other way around (HPS bulb in an MH ballast) it wouldn't work at all because there would be no firing unit. I don't think it hurts the ballast at all, but it may burn the bulb out quicker than usual from the double firing. The ballast manufacturers recommend the conversion bulbs to be the best approach. Hope this helps more than confuses!
Q: I do not have a green thumb but I enjoy plants. I tend to 30 houseplants at our office. We have several peace lilies, pothos, philodendrons, spider plant, wandering jew, jade, lipstick plant, sago palm etc. they are all just ok. Some have a little black winged bug so I have used insecticide soap but still have some yellow and brown leaves. They just aren't at their best. I so much want to have strong beautiful green healthy plants. What do you recommend to use? Foliar fertilization or soil or root feeding? Please help!
A: Find the answer in our Winter Survival Facts page.
Q: I am an experienced vegetable gardener, on a budget, who wants to expand the growing season earlier by starting my own tomato, eggplant, and pepper plants. I want to keep it simple and small, but effective for supplementing seedlings light requirements for 4-6 hours a day. The difference between fluorescent and HID seems astounding. I would like to put under lights 4 flats, for 6-8 weeks, then transplant outside. What do you suggest?
A: My recommendation would be to use a 4-lamp T5 fixture. We love these things! The light quality is about twice that of a standard 4-lamp T12 fixture (the old style fluorescents), and the plants will thank you for it. A mix of half warm, and half cool bulbs would be best for extended vegetative growth as you're describing, which points you toward the New Wave T5-44 fixture on our site. If you wanted to start now and actually produce some vegetables indoors, my recommendation would be the HID lights, but for starts, you really can't beat the T5's.
Q: I have two can lights over a bay window where I keep orchids in the winter. Would these plants benefit significantly if I plugged ... lighting compact bulbs in these cans? How many hours per day would I leave on?
A: The plants would love it. The only problem is that these bulbs may be too fat for a recessed fixture, so be sure to check dimensions. The smaller of the compact fluorescent bulbs we've got is the Pro-Start 105 watt C.F. For duration, I'd recommend 12 to 18 hours a day unless you've got good natural light as well, then you can use less. Your orchids will appreciate the additional light, but for aesthetics, it may be a bit bright for the room if you're going to be hanging out while they're on. In my own home plant lighting situation, I simply leave the lights on while I'm gone.
Q: Is it really necessary to have a can fan attached to the can filter? Can't I have any fan with the right cfm to either blow thru or pull air thru the can filter? Are can filters designed to pull air or push air via the fan?
A: The air movement (or cfm's) isn't the only important part in matching the fan to the filter. It's also the 'pressure' of the fan's output. If you were to run a squirrel-cage type fan on a carbon filter (or an in-line duct fan, or an axial computer fan), they won't have the same torque as a centrifugal fan, so the cfm's aren't the same when you restrict the air movement with the carbon filter. It's hard to get a good match between different types of fans with the carbon filters but it can be done. It's just kind of a hit/miss approach to find the correct air movement with a fan other than the sizes that the manufacturers recommend.
As for the air movement, you can push or pull through the filter, and it will work just as good either way, but in the long run you want to pre-filter the air to get all of the dust out before the air enters the carbon filter. The CAN filters come with a white poly outer pre-filter to remove all of the dust before it can create dust pockets in the carbon. If the dust is allowed to enter the filter (without the use of a pre-filter), it creates pockets of dust that promote bacterial growth, and this bacterial growth limits the overall life of the carbon. So, a pre-filter is important either way whether you push or pull through the filter.
Q: What packing material do you use? I want to order an organic product and want to make sure it is not contaminated. I'm a big supporter of recycling.
A: Your organic products are protected from contamination (within our packaging) because we use mostly green CFC-free Styrofoam packing peanuts. You can even use these ecological-safe packing peanuts as a stand-alone growing medium for orchids. Or they can be recycled as a perlite replacement if you crunch them up and mix them with soil. Or use them whole in the bottom of pots for drainage. To recycle packing peanuts, take them to a UPS store - many locations take them for recycling.
Q: I have an outdoor garden that seems to have voles or moles burrowing in it can you recommend how to stop this problem?
A: The mole or vole problem that your garden has is most likely due to a plentiful supply of grubs in the soil. If they don't have food, the moles will move on. So, based on that, getting rid of the grubs is the more immediate issue. For a natural approach, we've got a product called "milky spore" that is an innoculant for your garden/lawn. You apply the milky spore for 3 or 4 years in the spring and fall and then you'll have achieved many years of control without having to reapply for 7 to 10 years. I've heard many variations on the number of applications, and years of control, but at any rate, it ends up being taken care of for a long time.
Q: What's the difference between warm/cool bulb?
A. If you think of it in street light terms, the white ones are cool (metal halide) and the orange ones are warm (high pressure sodium). Plants are very spectrum sensitive, and pick up on different parts of the light than our eyes can see.
To a plant, the cool white lights simulate the brighter, whiter sunlight of spring and early summer, which is better for vegetative growth (more compact leaf and stem development).
The warm orange bulbs are more like mid-summer to fall sunlight, and actually cause the plants to 'want' to produce their fruit, flowers, or vegetables.
When you're growing indoors, by starting out with the cool/white light, then changing to the warm/orange light, you'll get a healthier, stronger, more productive plant.
Q: How long should I flood the ebb tray for, plus how many times per day?
A: There is no exact answer to this question, because everyone's setup and environment are so different from one another, but here are some general guidelines. First, it completely depends on what kind of growing medium you're using and your environmental conditions. If you're using Hydroton rocks in containers, and your room temp is around 70 degrees, I'd go 4 to 6 times a day, at 15 minutes per watering, spread out around the clock (maybe not as frequently when the lights are off, but they still need water at night too). If you've got high humidity in the area, you won't need this many waterings. If your temp is higher than 70, you may need more. If you're using CO2, or add CO2 down the road, they'll need more frequent watering then too. If you're using rockwool, you'll probably only need one or two 15 minute waterings per day, and only once every few days at first. Rockwool holds a ton of water, and usually people overwater it at first. If you are using rockwool, you'd want the blocks to start drying out a bit (not completely bone dry) before re-watering. This will force an aggressive rootsystem which will benefit the plant later on. Just don't be afraid to try different watering cycles. You can still over or under water in hydroponics just like you can in soil, but if you really watch the plants (foliage and roots), they'll let you know if they need more or less water. Figuring all of this out will eventually earn you your hydroponics green thumb!
Q: Are the Air Cooled Cylinders / HPS 600W ballast, meant for just HPS, or are they convertible to MH?
A: The only 600 watt MH you can get is a conversion bulb, and it's shape is different from standard MH bulbs. It's shaped more like the long skinny HPS bulbs, so it'll fit into the CoolTubes without a problem. The Sunmaster 600 MH Conversion bulb is the best one on the market now. The output from that bulb is a respectable 600 watts of quality MH light.
Q: Your opinion on the need for CO2?
A: CO2 is huge. It's number 3 in the level of "important things to a plant", and that's before fertilizer. Achieving and maintaining the natural levels of CO2 that are in the oxygen around us is the most important thing. Adding more beyond that will speed up the growth of a plant incredibly. The oxygen around us contains about 300 parts per million, but if you increase to about 1500ppm, the plants will go crazy.
Q: I was wondering on which light system I should get. HPS or MH... It will be used for Flowering plants... Some say HPS make plants grow lanky but promote flowering as MH is from start to finish. Does the HPS require a secondary light source?
A: I'll have to start by saying that it is advantageous to use both MH, and HPS throughout the lifecycle of the flowering plant. Starting with the MH will achieve a healthier, stockier plant, more able to deal with the weight of it's eventual flowers. Then, changing to the HPS will "fool" the plant into thinking that the season is progressing, causing a jump in natural hormones that forces the fruiting/flowering of the plant to take place more aggressively. That being said, if you just use the HPS throughout, you will probably achieve the same flower size or vegetable weight, but with lankier plants more in need of outside weight support. If you used just the MH throughout, the flowers would be smaller and more compact, but the overall weight of any vegetables would suffer slightly.
Many of the systems that we've got available are able to make use of both the MH and HPS bulbs within the same system. These have become the popular choice in the last several years, and they usually don't cost much if any more than a devoted HPS system will.
Q: I am looking for my first hydroponic system and have narrowed my choices down to either the starter package 1 or 2 although I am open to suggestions. What are the pros and cons of each system for the novice grower and is the additional cost for system #2 "worth it" for the novice grower. I will be growing plants for personal use only...mainly tomatoes or similar plants.
A: Considering the quality of the components in both of the packages that you mentioned, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend either. The additional kick that your plants would get out of the 250 watt light in the #2 package will make you some seriously happy plants compared to the compact fluorescent in the other package, but either will work well. As far as the hydroponics systems, you'll get some versatility with the Megagarden over the Emily's Garden because the Megagarden is basically a 2'x2' tray that you can move the plants around in. That allows you to grow 15 small plants or 1 big one, or any number in between. The Emily's works just as good as the Mega, but you lose that versatility. Again, I think both are good packages for anyone, so you can't really make a bad choice. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask.Find Starter Package 1 Find Starter Package 2
Q: Will the Fantech Variable Hydro-dynamics. Ionic Grow, Ionic Bloom, Fossil Fuel, Greenfuse Grow, and Greenfuse Bloom. On top of all of this, Foxfarm makes a 3-part dry additive (Fox Farm Soluble Tri-Pak) that you'd use throughout your entire fruit development.
The other is the General Hydroponics group of Flora Nova Grow, Flora Nova Bloom, Floralicious Grow, Floralicious Bloom, Floralicious Plus, Diamond Nectar, and Kool Bloom Liquid (just after the plants start to produce) and Dry (as the fruit gets bigger and riper).
With either one of these combinations, if you do foliar feeds, you could use Organa-Add, or Nitrozime (or go back and forth between the two once or twice a week). Also, I've done some experimenting with Mycorrhizal Fungus in the rootsystem in hydro, and found that it makes a huge difference in the size of the rootsystem which should mean larger fruit. Another additive for hydroponics especially in hot weather is Hygrozyme which can be used throughout with either of the lines.
If you don't want to spend as much as you'd have to on my suggestions, I'd say you could use Dyna-Gro Grow, and Dyna-Gro Bloom, and Age Old Kelp Liquid, and maybe during fruiting, throw in the General Hydroponics Kool Bloom Dry. This would give you some respectable results without spending a fortune.
Q: If someone were so inept as to measure their Age Old Organics grow formula. It's got sufficient nitrogen to stimulate healthy growth, and if you can adjust your soil ph to a slightly acidic ph of about 6 to 6.5, your bamboo should be very happy.
Q: What's the best way to set up a Can-Fan and Can-Filter combo?
A: Find the answer on our CAN Combo page.
Q: I have 2 ft wide x 6 ft long x 8 ft deep indoor room. Maximum odor control is my goal---which can filter do you suggest?
A: Find the answer on our Growroom Odor Control page.
Q: I think I have fungus Thrip Facts page.
Q: I am interested in growing Growing Vegetables Indoors page.